The Aurisse Journal
Extrait de Parfum vs Eau de Parfum: What Actually Differs
The difference between extrait de parfum and eau de parfum is how much fragrance oil is dissolved in the alcohol. Eau de parfum typically runs 15% to 20%. Extrait de parfum runs 20% to 40%. That single number changes how long a fragrance lasts, how close to the skin it sits, and how much you need to apply, but it does not tell you whether a fragrance is any good.
The actual numbers
Every fragrance is oil dissolved in alcohol, with a little water. The category names describe the ratio.
| Type | Oil concentration | Typical wear |
|---|---|---|
| Eau de cologne | 2% to 5% | 1 to 2 hours |
| Eau de toilette | 5% to 15% | 3 to 5 hours |
| Eau de parfum | 15% to 20% | 5 to 8 hours |
| Extrait de parfum | 20% to 40% | 8 to 12+ hours |
Those wear times are rough. Skin chemistry, hydration, weather and the specific materials in the formula all move them, sometimes considerably.
The thing most guides leave out
These categories are not regulated. There is no legal definition of extrait de parfum, no authority checking the percentage, and no requirement to print it anywhere.
A brand can label a 16% formula as extrait and nobody will stop them. Some do. This is worth knowing before you pay a premium for the word, and it means the only figure worth trusting is one the brand actually states as a number rather than implying through the category name.
If a brand will not tell you the percentage, the category on the box is a marketing decision, not a specification.
What concentration actually changes
How long it lasts. The most obvious effect. More oil means more material to evaporate off the skin, so the fragrance takes longer to disappear.
How much you apply. Three sprays of an extrait does what six or seven sprays of an eau de toilette does. This is why a smaller extrait bottle often outlasts a larger, weaker one, and why comparing bottles on price per millilitre is misleading.
How close it sits. This one surprises people. Extraits often project less than eau de parfums, not more. Higher oil content means less alcohol, and alcohol is what pushes a fragrance outward as it evaporates. An extrait tends to sit close to the skin and last, rather than filling a room and fading.
What you smell at each stage. Higher concentrations lean toward the heavier base materials, so extraits often smell richer and less bright than the eau de parfum version of the same fragrance. Same name, noticeably different character.
What concentration does not change
Whether the fragrance is any good.
Concentration is a measure of quantity, not quality. A poorly composed fragrance at 40% is a poorly composed fragrance that lasts all day, which is arguably worse than one that fades quickly. A beautifully made eau de toilette will beat a badly made extrait every time.
The materials, the composition and the balance decide whether something smells good. Concentration only decides how much of it there is and how long it stays.
Why higher is not automatically better
There are real trade-offs, and most brands selling extraits will not mention them.
Extraits are heavier. In hot, humid weather a dense amber or gourmand base can feel oppressive in a way a lighter version of the same scent does not. Summer is genuinely where eau de toilette earns its place.
They are less forgiving. Over-apply an eau de toilette and it fades within the hour. Over-apply an extrait and you live with it, and so does everyone near you, for most of the day.
They project less, which matters if you specifically want to be noticed across a room rather than by people standing close to you.
And they cost more per bottle, though usually less per wear, because you use so much less.
Which one should you actually buy
Choose eau de toilette for hot weather, for the office if you work closely with people, and for anything you want to reapply through the day rather than commit to in the morning.
Choose eau de parfum if you want one bottle that handles most situations. It is the default for a reason.
Choose extrait de parfum for evenings, for cold weather, and when you want a fragrance that is still present at the end of a long day. Also when you want fewer, better bottles rather than a large collection.
Aurisse fragrances are all 40% extrait, at the top of the range. That is a deliberate choice with the trade-offs above attached to it, and it suits some people and not others.
How to read a bottle properly
Look for a stated percentage. If the brand publishes one, they are accountable to it. If they only use the category name, treat it as a broad hint.
Read the note list rather than the family description. "Woody oriental" tells you almost nothing. Cedarwood, oakmoss and ambroxan tells you what you are actually buying, which we go through in our guide to what woody aromatic means.
Ignore bottle size when comparing price. A 50ml extrait can outlast a 100ml eau de toilette, because you use half as much per wear.
And remember that longevity is not only concentration. Base note materials matter enormously. A fragrance built on amber and leather will outlast one built on citrus at the same concentration, because those molecules are heavier and evaporate more slowly. We cover the full picture in our guide to what actually makes a fragrance last.
Common questions
Is extrait de parfum stronger than eau de parfum?
More concentrated, yes. Stronger in the sense of filling a room, often no. Extraits tend to sit closer to the skin because there is less alcohol to push the scent outward.
Is parfum the same as extrait de parfum?
Usually. Parfum, pure parfum and extrait de parfum are generally used interchangeably for the highest concentration tier. None of the terms are regulated.
Does extrait de parfum last longer on clothes?
Yes, considerably. Fabric does not have skin chemistry working against it, so fragrance can remain on a scarf or jacket for days. Test on an inconspicuous area first, since some oils stain.
Why is extrait more expensive?
More fragrance oil per bottle, and the oils are the expensive part. Per wear it often works out cheaper, because you use fewer sprays.
Can I wear extrait de parfum in summer?
You can, with fewer sprays and preferably in the evening. A heavy base in genuine humidity is a lot, both for you and the people near you.
The short version
Concentration tells you how long a fragrance lasts and how much to use. It does not tell you whether you will like it. Work out which direction suits you first, then decide how much of it you want on your skin.